Retka su jela sa svežim kupusom, ako ne računam kupus salatu, koja su u mom kulinarskom repertoaru, ali ova letnja sarma ima svoju reprizu u mojoj kuhinji svake godine u julu mesecu. Rađena je po receptu moje tetke koja ih sprema onda kada Aranđelovdan pada u sredu ili petak, kada se posti. Ova sarma je nešto sasvim posebno. Ljubiteljima vege kuhinje će sigurno obogatiti kuvar sa receptima, a oni koji ne ljube kupus, kao i ja, ovo jelo će biti jedno prijatno iznenađenje.
Najbolje je ove sarmice praviti u ranim letnjim mesecima, jer kasnije kupus nije pogodan za njih.
Odvajanje listova kupusa nije velika filozofija i detaljno sam se trudila sve da opišem u receptu. Listovi se filuju mešavinom prodinstanog sezonskog povrća koje se uglavnom renda na krupno i kuvanim pirinčem, pa se onda rolnice bez kuvanja u šerpi, posute kimom zapeku u rerni.
Služe se uz kiselo mleko, pavlaku, paradajz salatu, tople ili hladne.
Meni je od ove količine fila preteklo za kupus od koji sam imala od 1,2kg, pa sam ostatak fila zamrzla za sledeći put, a vama preporučujem korišćenje dva glavice kupusa od oko kilogram ako želite sav fil da iskoristite.
KUPUS
svež kupus 1,2kg (može i veći ili 2 glavice od 1kg)
kašika kima
voda i velika šerpa
kašika soli
FIL
200ml ulja
1 crni luk (može i više)
4 šargarepe krupno rendane - 400g
2 krompira krupno rendana - 500g
koren celera krupno rendan - 250g
jedna stabljika i list celera
2 žute okrugle žute tikvice - 700g
2-3 kašike dvostrukog paradajz koncentrata
začin C, Vegeta, so, biber
kocka za supu
veza svežeg peršuna, bosiljak, ruzmarin
600-700ml vode
200g pirinča dugog zrna
PREMAZIVANJE I POSIPANJE
ulje za premazivanje
malo kima za posipanje
FIL
Skuvati pirinač, ocediti ga i ostaviti sa strane dok spremite fil. U velikoj šerpi na 100ml ulja kratko propržiti rebarca crnog luka. Dodati šargarepu, krompir, koren celera koje ste izrendali na krupno na što duže froncle (vući u jednom potezu), dodati još 100ml ulja i doliti malo vode od onih 600 do 700ml i propirjati uz polako dolivanje vode. Posle desetak minuta dodati rendane tikvice. Ja sam koru iseckla na kockice, a srž rendala radi boljeg vizuelnog efekta. Dodati sitno seckanu stabljiku celera i list, kao i peršun, bosiljak i ruzmarin, kocku za supu, začin C ili Vegetu, biber. Uz dolivanje vode krčkati oko pola sata dok povrće nije skoro gotovo. Ako vam ostane tečnosti, a ostaće, lepo sve procedite u situ, a tečnost sačuvajte za neku lepu supicu. Spojiti pirinač i povrće, dodati koncentrat paradajza na kraju koji daje posebnu slast (ne paradajz sok, već pire) i dosoliti. Ostaviti fil bar pola sata da se malo ohladi da bi kuvani pirinač upio sokove povrća.
LISTOVI KUPUSA
U šerpi u kojoj može da stane glavica kupusa, a da je bar do 2/3 visine prekrivena vodom, sipati vodu i dodati 2 kašike kima, pa staviti da provri. Dok se voda zagreva ukloniti kočanj kupusa i spustiti celu glavicu u šerpu tako da je kočanj na dnu šerpe. Glavicu spustiti još dok je voda dovoljno topla da prst možete staviti, a da se ne opečete. Ostaviti da voda počne polako da struji. Kašikama okrenuti glavicu, pa polako odvajati listove i slagati ih list na list u veću cediljku koju ste stavili u šerpu. Ovde nije cilj da se listovi skuvaju i u potpunosti omeknu, već da se popare. Ako vam zapne sa nekim listom onda ga nožićem odvojite. Kada is sve poslažete u cediljku poklopite cediljku tanjirom i ostavite oko 15 minuta da se listovi upare. Veće listove preseći na pola i ukloniti tvrdu žilu, a manjima stanjiti žilu. Ređati listove na ravnom tanjiru, poklopite ih drugim tanjirom i pritisnite da se malo izravnaju.
PUNJENJE I PEČENJE
Ovde se metod presavijanja, prvo dve bočne stranice, pa uvijanja nije pokazao kao dobar; preklopiti jednu stranu, zamotati, uzeti sarmicu u ruku, pa onda dopuniti sa još malo fila uz pritiskanje odozgo, a onda ušuškati drugi kraj. Ako samo presavijate strane pa motate ne možete dopuniti fil, koji je potreban, a sarmica biti polu-prazna jer je kupus i dalje blago valovit. Poslagati sarmice u koloni na radnoj površini pa ih pritisnuti sa strane da budu približno iste veličine. Složiti ih u pleh od rerne obložen papirom za pečenje sa 1 cm prostora između njih. Premazati ih uljem i posuti sa malo kima . Peći na 220 stepeni dok ne uhvate lepu koricu.
I am not a big fan of fresh cabbage, with the exception of the coleslaw, but these dolmas, sarma as we call them here in Serbia, are one of those things you have to try. This is a vegetarian version where the veggie and rice filling is stuffed into fresh cabbage leaves, preferably summer cabbage that has greener leaves, and then baked in the oven until it reaches a nice crust. Usually we use braised cabbage and stuff it with minced meat and rice, but my aunt Emilia preparesthis version for her slava, which is a Serbian Orthodox tradition where each family annually celebrates its Patron Saint. If it falls on the days of the lent like Wednesday and Friday when only vegetarian dishes are allowed on the table this is what she makes among many other things.
CABBAGE LEAVES
cabbage head 1,2kg or larger
1 tablespoon of carraway seeds
large pot and tap water
1 tablespoon of salt
FILLING
200ml of sunflower oil
1 onion sliced
4 shredded carrots - 400g
2 shredded potatoes - 500g
celery root shredded - 250g
diced celery stock and leaves
2 yellow zucchinis - 700g
2-3 tablespoons of tomato concentrate in a tube
stock cube, salt, pepper
fresh parsley leaves, basil, rosemary
600-700ml of tap water
200g of long grain rice
GLAZING AND SPRINKLING
bit of oil
carraway seeds
VEGGIE FILLING
Cook the rice and set aside until you make the filling. In a large pot heat 100ml of oil, add in the onion and fry for a minute or two. Add in the carrots, potatoes, celery root. Add in additional 100ml of oil and a bit of water out of those 600 to 700ml. Cook while adding the water that evaporates for around 10 minutes and then add in the zucchini. I have cut the outer core into cubes and shredded the middle. Add in the celery stock, leaves, parsley, basil, rosemary, stock cube, salt and pepper. Cook while adding in water until the veggies are done and most of the liquid has evaporated. Strain the veggies, bu save the liquid that you can use for a fantastic veggie soup base. Add the veggies to the rice and let stand until it cools so the rice can absorb the aromas. Add in additional salt and spices to your liking and tomato concentrate.
Fill a very large pot with water and add in salt and carraway seeds and turn on the heat and in the meanwhile while the water is heating up remove the core from the cabbage like in the picture. Place the cabbage so the cabbage sits on the hole and it is covered 2/3 in water while the water is still not boiling but hot enough so you can place your finger in and not get burned. Let the water boil and then with tablespoons or forks turn the cabbage up/side/down and start removing the leaves one by one. Place the leaves in a strainer that you have placed in a pot so the water does not run all over your counter top. Place the leaves one on top of the other; if you have trouble removing the leaves just remove them with a knife. Once you have placed all the leaves in a strainer, cover the strainer with a plate and let sit there for 15 minutes or so. Now, on a cutting board cut the large outer leaves into two parts, removing the hard center and leave the smaller leaves whole, just thing the hard part a bit. Place all the leaves on a plate and cover with another plate so they would even out for a bit.
Place a tablespoon of the filling on the cabbage leaf and flip one side towards the center. Roll and take the dolma in you hand and stuff some more pushing the filling down. Tuck in the remaining open part and place the dolmas as you make them on in an oven pan lined with baking paper with about a 1cm space between them. Glaze with oil and sprinkle with carraway seeds. Bake at 220 degrees Celsius until a nice crust forms. Serve with sour cream, or fresh tomato salad, hot, warm or cold.
CABBAGE LEAVES
STUFFING AND BAKING