ESTERHAZI TORTA
KORE
12 belanaca (od većih jaja)
250 g kristal-šećera + 2 kesice vanil-šećera
250 g mlevenih, pečenih lešnika
80 g mekog belog brašna
malo putera za premazivanje papira za pečenje (oko 20 g)
FIL
12 žumanaca
250 g kristal-šećera + 2 kesice vanil-šećera
300 g putera, sobne temperature
150 g mlevenih, pečenih lešnika*
PREMAZ
oko 2 kašike džema od kajsija
1 kašičica vode (ako je džem gust)
BELA GLAZURA
250–300 g prah-šećera
2 kašike ulja
3–4 kašičice limunovog soka
1 belance, sobne temperature
DEKORACIJA
30–50 g čokolade za kuvanje (bolje više nego manje)
1 kašičica ulja
100 g krupno seckanih, pečenih lešnika
LEŠNICI – SAVETI I PEČENJE
Lešnike, bilo da su sirovi ili već pečeni, obavezno treba dodatno ispeći ili dopeći u rerni, jer se njihov puni miris i ukus oslobađaju tek tokom pečenja. Nepečene lešnike rasporedite u pleh, pa tek tada uključite rernu na 170 stepeni. Pecite dok opna ne počne da tamni i dok se u kuhinji ne oseti izražena aroma lešnika. Ako počinjete od hladne rerne, potrebno je oko 25 minuta. Sa već pečenim lešnicima postupak je isti, ali je vreme kraće. Opna treba da potamni gotovo do crne boje, dok unutrašnjost dobija svetlu, karamel nijansu.
Obložite dublju posudu starom krpom koju planirate da bacite, pa u nju sipajte vrele lešnike. Uvrnite krajeve krpe i snažno trljajte lešnike dok se ljuspice ne odvoje. Uklonite opnu i ostavite lešnike da se potpuno ohlade.
* Za ovaj recept potrebno je 500 g sirovih lešnika. Nakon pečenja i ljuštenja uvek ostane koji gram manje. Odmah odvojim 100 g koji će biti za dekoraciju oko torte, bilo da ih krupni iseckam ili stavim u kesu i tučkom za meso malo usitnim. Ostatak sameljem: 250 g ide za kore, a preostala količina (nešto manje od 150 g) za fil.
KORE
Mikserom umutite belanca u polučvrst sneg, zatim postepeno dodajte kristal-šećer i vanil-šećer i nastavite mućenje dok ne dobijete čvrst, sjajan šam. U posebnoj posudi pomešajte mlevene lešnike i brašno, pa ih u nekoliko navrata, uz malu brzinu miksera, umešajte u šam, tek toliko da se smesa ujednači.
Pripremite šest papira za pečenje i na svakom flomasterom nacrtajte krug prečnika 22 cm.
Izvadite pleh iz rerne i zagrejte rernu na 170 stepeni (bez ventilatora) i stavite paipir za pečenje tako da je nacrtani krug okrenut na dole. Premažite krug tankim slojem putera. Na svaki krug rasporedite oko četiri pune kašike smese za kore i blago poravnajte.
Pecite svaku koru 13–14 minuta. Pečene kore, zajedno sa papirom, prebacujte na ravnu površinu obloženu platnom (npr. stolnjakom) i ostavite da se hlade jednu do druge. Dok se jedna kora peče, smesu za kore vratite u frižider. Ako imate samo jedan pleh, pustite da se blago ohladi između pečenja. Kore hladite bez odvajanja od papira.
Naravno, ako ste raspoloženi možete za svaku pojedinačnu koru mutiti smesu. Postupak je duži ali će kore biti vazdušastije.
FIL
Mikserom kratko umutite žumanca sa šećerom i vanil-šećerom, samo dok ne pobele. Kuvajte na pari tako da posuda sa jajima dobro naleže na šerpu sa vodom (2–3 prsta vode). Tek kada voda provri, stavite posudu sa jajima i kuvajte 14–15 minuta uz povremeno mešanje — u početku ređe, a kasnije češće. Ostavite fil da se potpuno ohladi.
Ohlađeni fil kratko umutite mikserom. Posebno umutite puter sobne temperature, pa ga sjedinite sa filom. Dodajte mlevene lešnike i mutite još oko minut, dok fil ne postane lagan i vazdušast.
FILOVANJE, NIVELISANJE I DŽEM
Odvojte dve kašike fila za premazivanje ivica torte. Izaberite najlepšu i najravniju koru i ostavite je za vrh. Ostatak fila podelite na pet jednakih delova.
Poslužavnik obložite papirom za pečenje i na njemu slažite tortu. Skinite papir sa prve kore i filujte sloj po sloj. Poslednja, gornja kora treba da bude postavljena ravnom stranom nagore i ne premazuje se filom.
Preko pete kore stavite papir za pečenje, zatim još jedan poslužavnik i lagani teret (npr. dve tetrapak kutije mleka ili manju šerpu sa vodom) kako bi se torta poravnala. Držite u frižideru oko 30 minuta, zatim premažite ivice torte sačuvanim filom.
Gornju koru premažite tankim slojem toplog džema od kajsija, razblaženog sa kašičicom vode i zagrejanog u maloj šerpici. Džem sprečava upijanje bele glazure i daje torti prepoznatljivu, blago kiselkastu notu. Po potrebi, uklonite komadiće voća iz džema ili džem procedite kroz cediljku dok je još vruć. Vratite tortu u frižider na 30–60 minuta, da se džem stegne.
BELA GLAZURA
Pre nego što počnete sa glazurom, otopite čokoladu za šaru i pripremite drveni štapić za dekoraciju, kao i seckane lešnike za obod.
Umutite belance sobne temperature u čvrst sneg. Odvojte četvrtinu snega sa strane — ponekad je belance veće nego što je potrebno. U preostali sneg postepeno dodajte prah-šećer, limunov sok i ulje, muteći mikserom dok ne dobijete gust, gladak krem. Po potrebi dodajte još šećera ili malo sačuvanog snega. Glazura treba da bude maziva, ali ne previše tečna.
Širokim nožem, umočenim u vruću vodu, brzo premažite tortu. Neravnine se mogu popraviti vrućim vazduhom iz fena za kosu. Dok je glazura još mekana, odmah nanesite čokoladnu šaru.
Belance se može zameniti sa oko četiri kašike vrele vode, ali belance daje lepšu belinu i strukturu glazure.
ČOKOLADNA ŠARA
Otopite čokoladu sa uljem na pari ili tihoj vatri. Sipajte je u improvizovani špric od deblje kese. Povucite linije ili krugove po glazuri, zatim drvenim štapićem ili tupom ivicom noža povlačite linije pod uglom od 45 stepeni — jednu nadole, drugu nagore. Krupno mlevene lešnike rukom utisnite uz obod torte, čime ćete ujedno sprečiti da glazura curi.
Esterhazi tortu je najbolje napraviti najmanje dva dana pre serviranja, kako bi se ukusi potpuno proželi. Vremenom postaje sve lepša, a ono poslednje parče uvek je najfinije. Ovo nije torta za žurbu — odvojte jedno popodne i uživajte u pripremi ove klasične poslastičarske raskoši.
ESTERHAZY TORTE
HAZELNUT SPONGE LAYERS
HAZELNUT CREAM
APRICOT JAM GLAZE
WHITE ICING
CHOCOLATE DECORATION
HAZELNUTS
Place the hazelnuts on an oven tray in a cold oven, then turn the temperature to 170–180°C. Bake until a rich aroma fills the kitchen and the skins darken to deep brown, while the nuts themselves turn a light caramel color. This may take 15–25 minutes, so keep an eye on them and decide when they are ready.
Even if the hazelnuts are already roasted, this step is essential, as it fully develops their flavor. Almonds should remain pale, but hazelnuts need to be well roasted to release their aroma. Line a deep bowl with an old kitchen towel that you plan to discard, then pour the hot hazelnuts into it. Gather the ends of the towel and rub the hazelnuts vigorously until the skins loosen and come off. Remove the skins and allow the hazelnuts to cool completely.
Set aside 100 g and roughly chop them for decorating the sides of the cake. Grind the remaining hazelnuts. A nut grinder works best, as a food processor may turn them into a paste. If using a food processor, pulse in short intervals so the nuts remain powdery rather than creamy. Divide the ground hazelnuts into two portions: 250 g for the layers and 150 g for the filling.
HAZELNUT SPONGE LAYERS
Using an electric mixer, beat the egg whites until stiff, gradually adding the granulated sugar and vanilla sugar. Continue beating for about 5 minutes, until firm peaks form.
Reduce the mixer speed to the lowest setting and gently fold in the ground hazelnuts mixed with the flour.
Cut baking paper into squares and draw a 25 cm circle on each sheet. Turn the paper over so the markings do not transfer to the sponge. Spoon one-sixth of the mixture evenly inside the circle. Place the remaining batter in the refrigerator while each layer is baking.
Place the paper with the sponge onto a oven tray and bake in a preheated oven at 160°C (no fan) for about 14 minutes. The layers will remain soft, which is exactly how they should be, your finger should not stick when lightly touched.
Remove each layer together with the baking paper and place it on a flat surface to cool. Repeat with the remaining five layers, always using a cooled tray.
If you have a 25 cm springform pan with a removable base, you may cut the baking paper to fit the bottom and bake the layers directly in the pan. Be sure to cool the pan completely before adding batter for the next layer. Lay all baked layers side by side to cool.
HAZELNUT CREAM
Prepare the cream in a double boiler. If you do not have one, place a smaller pot snugly inside a larger pot with about 2–3 cm of water. Bring the water to a boil.
In the smaller pot, beat the egg yolks and sugar with an electric mixer for about 30 seconds. Place the pot over the boiling water and cook for 14–15 minutes, stirring every 2–3 minutes at first and constantly toward the end, scraping the sides and bottom.
Remove from heat and allow the mixture to cool completely. Beat the cooled custard briefly, then add the butter (previously beaten until creamy at room temperature). Mix until fully combined, then add the ground hazelnuts and beat for another minute until light and smooth.
Set aside 2 tablespoons of the cream for finishing the sides of the cake. Divide the remaining cream evenly into five portions.
ASSEMBLY
Line a serving tray with baking paper. Choose the thickest and most even sponge layer for the top.
Place the first layer on the tray and remove the baking paper. Spread one portion of the cream evenly over the surface. Top with the next layer, remove the paper, and repeat until all layers are assembled. Place the final layer on top with the smooth side facing upward.
Cover the cake with baking paper, gently press to level it, then place a tray on top and weigh it down with something heavy (such as a pot filled with water). Refrigerate for 30 minutes to allow the layers to settle evenly.
APRICOT JAM GLAZE
Heat the apricot jam with the water until smooth. Remove the top baking paper and spread a very thin layer of jam over the cake—just enough to seal the surface. Return the cake to the refrigerator for 30 minutes to allow the glaze to set.
After chilling, spread the reserved cream evenly around the sides of the cake.
WHITE ICING
In a bowl, mix the powdered sugar, oil, and lemon juice by hand, adding hot water teaspoon by teaspoon until the icing is smooth and creamy but not runny. Mix vigorously for several minutes.
Using a large knife dipped in hot water, quickly spread the icing over the apricot-glazed top only. You will need about 250–300 g of powdered sugar, but it is best to prepare more, as once you begin spreading, you cannot stop and remix. Any unevenness can be smoothed with a hair dryer set on warm.
DECORATION
Before icing the cake, prepare the chocolate, as it must be applied while the icing is still soft. Melt the chocolate with the oil and transfer it to a piping bag or a sturdy plastic bag with the corner snipped off.
Pipe concentric circles onto the icing. Using a wooden skewer or the blunt edge of a knife, draw lines through the circles at a 45-degree angle, alternating directions to create the classic Esterházy pattern.
Press the chopped hazelnuts around the sides of the cake.
Refrigerate the torte for at least 24 hours before serving. This is a cake that improves with time—we often enjoy it over the course of a full week.
